Tuesday, February 3, 2009

some pics from our trip to beautiful Georgia

We start with the local cuisine - hotchapori - a meat dumpling that you pick up and the skilled person manages to suck the juice out before devouring the delicacy without it draining down your arms or leaking on the table.
Tbilisi is a beautiful city on a river surrounded by hills on both sides. It is a very historic city and the contrasts left you in awe and looking for more.
At times you could have been walking any city of the world and then you make interesting discoveries. The history in this place would take you a lifetime to discover.



Entry way to this ancient monastry on top of a hill in central Tbilisi. The history is amazing.

The architecture a mix of the cosmpolitan influences and in particular the turkish.

We visited 3 Corps and spent some time at each place trying to understand the difference coming from our western and influention army background to this very poor european culture.
Worship is part of each after school program and some good musicians have devloped. Here the Samgori kids practice for Sunday worship
After school program - lunch a plate of buckwheat, corn bread and biscuits and of course chai. We did eat with the kids - the pic was taken early. I could not come at the buck wheat though - But Ron put away his bowl full.
Rustavi hall a good worship centre - but very cold. The second building carrying water damage and needing reparations.
Samgori is the ground floor glass fronted building - good location on a main street.
Note the ancient seating and the cold marble foor.

The Corps buildings were purchased with limited funds and the upgrade money is yet to be found. The three Corps we visited had properties that present exciting possibilities for program, but were in urgent need of renovation, repair or upgrade. We were blessed to see an enthusiastic army, working with limited budgets, in communities that desperately need Jesus. The challenge for us remains to shift our 'western' mindset and engage in their culture and discover how best we can help them in their journey of devlopment and discovery.

Friday, January 30, 2009

a quick trip to Georgia

We returned to work after the long Christmas break to prepare for a few days in Georgia. The current project workers finish their 3 year assignment and were handing over to their replacement. We took the opportunity to visit to engage in some debriefing and training for the new worker. This was our first visit to this country. I must say I fell in love with Tbilisi.
The geography, the histroy and the people. It was an amazing place to visit.
The city of Tbilisi is set on a river with hills each side. It is a very old city and the european aged buildings with a Turkish influence was intriguing. The history and stories that this place has to offer would keep you busy for a long time. The river is a mix of steep rock cliffs to meandering streams and patches of white water rockeries. I could put my boat in and experience a variety of paddling in a day. The people were most noticeable different to Russian people . They are more open and friendly and joyful, and we very much enjoyed the hospitality experienced during our visit.
We were able to visit expressions of the army in 3 Corps during our stay. Rustavi is a Corps within 30 minutes of Tbilisi and this is a rural town - although not large in physical size it is densely populated due to the high rise flats. As you drive towards this town the high rise buildings pop up in the landscape signalling this township. The intense population a legacy of the soviet era and built to house the people for industry. The industry has gone but the population remains. So in the small region over 100 nationalities reside with very high unemployment and the many issues that arise out of this. The Corps were engaged in a holiday program for village kids and so we were able to see how they work with limited resources. A good set of buildings give opportunity for a diverse program and the young officers here have an exciting opportunity for serving their community in different ways. The following day we were at Samgori, a Corps in the outer suburb of Tiblisi. The hall is on the main road and in desperate need of upgrading. It was great to see the work being done here with all age groups. Again the children were in a holiday program and so we observed the officers in action as they engaged with kids and the small singing group proacticing for the sunday meeting.
On Sunday we were able to attend the Central Corps where there was a meeting involving the young people and supported by a good size congregation of all ages. The piano players were 3 young girls that had come through the weekly kids program and have developed as excellent musicians. The cup of 'chai' followed the meeting and we then spent some time with the officer - hearing of his work and ministry. Finances was one of the big topics as the recently approved budget changes were bringing an impact. A look at an annual operating budget showed some figures that I found quite shcoking. The annual budget for a Corps in Georgia would be less than a one month budget in a Corps in Australia. Such is the situation here in EET as the annual operating costs are still heavily subsidised. The ability for The salvation Army to raise funds as we know in AUS are not possible here. Taxes and legal complications mixed with all complex issues of a post soviet era and the impact this has on people attitudes makes EET an interesting place to live and work.

If there is one area I would like to make a difference in our Army here it is in the sanitation. Our trip last year to Moldova last year was an eye opener. Some of our Corps did not even have a WC or it was a hole in the ground down the back lane. The standard of cleanliness where there was a toilet was staggering - should I say lack of standard. It was no different in Georgia where there is different priorities. Two of the places we visited had newly fitted WC - modern by all standards. But they could not afford the water to flush. So water was either held in the bath or large tub so that it could be carefully measured out for a flush when someone considered it necessary. Also due to the poor sewrage the paper is never flushed. It is placed often in open bins in the cubicle. So it does not matter where you go - it is always hold your nose and prepare for the smell. We need 'Kenny' out here - I am not yet sure how best to address the problem - but it is one I want to work on.

Our visit to Georgia was mostly work, a little sight seeing and some enjoyable hospitality in the home of a lovely Georgian family. But it quickly came to an end. This is one place I will be happy to return to. The return to Moscow was interesting as we changed planes in Kiev - out in the open while snow flakes fell. Safely back in our beds in Moscow at 2am.

Languge learning is coming slowly. Ron is more intent and is concentrating and practicing. He is conscientiously practicing every day. I still think it is too hard to acheive and have committed to learning a conversational level. My grandchildren are keeping me up with the learning as they anxiously ask on skype when we talk for a new word and they do their revision of words learnt so far. But we are managing to live, work and worship without Russian language so far. There have been a some times when difficulties present but we have worked our way through the situation.
And so we complete 5 months of our appointment - nearly half of the first year is gone. Much more...much more has God in store.........a line from a song but for me a question as I look forward in anticipation of what might be in store for these coming days and months as we continually discover what is possible and what it is we are to be doing in our work here.
Love to all at home
Lyn

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Visit to St Petersburg

The holiday period in Moscow is from Jan 1 until after Russain Christmas and THQ closes. We had a few days to spare so decided to join our American neighbours on a train ride to St Petersburg. We packed the picnic set and headed off on the 9 hour train journey through snow covered feilds. We were warm in the train and relaxed as we enjoyed the very different scenerey.


Our first night in St Pete it snowed and so that set the scene for our 6 day stay.
We walked our way around the central city area taking in the beauty of this very old city. Some days we were out for the whole day walking and sight seeing.
There were so many choices - museums, Cathedrals, markets, and just places to go and look. Map in hand and a picnic on our backs we found our way around taking it all in.
The Neva river is frozen over - but due to the need to keep it flowing the icebreaker makes it way down each day - causing an interesting chopped up effect. St pete is built on a river delta and canals separate the city into a number of islands With building and roadways built to the edges. We had great fun meandering our way around and discovering the sights, sounds and smells of a new city. We were able to walk out on the frozen river to where some people had built some ice sculptures - or is that a frozen stone henge?

Moscow has St Basils cathedral and St pete has Christ our saviour and we are not yet sure which we like best. But we took plenty of photos until we make up our mind.





















One of outings was to go to the 'Hermitage' also known as 'The winter palace' which is a famous museum housing some of the worlds most famous art collections and also some amazing architecture. As it was holiday time we stood in a Russian queue - 2.5 hours to get in the door and a further 30 minute in the coat rack queue. Finally we got in and then 3 hours later it was time to close. But we did get to see a bit of it. It is an amazing feeling standing in a place - on the other side of the world - looking at things we had only heard or read about. We felt priviledged to be able to stand in front of the Rembrandt painting of the Prodigal Son and also to see so many other expression of art both in paint and sculpture and also in the porcelain and architecture. It was a place you needed to go back to - over and over. And as we have our Russian work permit we saw all for only $5 - no more tourist prices for us- our 12 month working visa came through the day before Christmas!

Well as with all good things they come to an end. It was time to return to Moscow. Our return trip not so exciting as we enjoyed the Russian third class train travel - or was it 4 th class.





A large sign over the river reminded us of the time of the year - and so we greet you all with this message ........HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!


Carrolling in Moscow


We had a busy Christmas time as we took the opportunity to join the Moscow Orotorio to sing 'The Messiah'. There was also an extra concert to sing some modern carols written by a third generation famous composer by the name of Gorsky. There were 2 concerts in these amazing venues. It was a very interesting experience. In one of the concerts the father & son Gorsky's performed - that was a very memorable musical treat night when some of the best students from the Moscow conservatory of music also performed. Then our 100+ choir sang the jazzed up carols written by Gorsky Jnr.
This photo shows Ron & I with the Australian Ambassador to Russia who also sang Soprano in the choir.


We have a good sounding band at the Corps at present - the only staff band I will get to play in - staff because everyone works on HQ and is an officer! 2 captains and 4 Majors - 1 russain, 1 Moldovan, 3 Americans and 2 Aussies.


We managed a number of carollong opportunities. The final one was to play at the Ambassadors residence for her staff Christmas party. Margaret enjoyed the music and took the opportunity to conduct us for a carol or two. We enjoyed the opportunity to share carols with these people from Russia , Australia and around the world. We also enjoyed the food!!!
The snow continues to fall and we enjoyed a quiet day at home and prepared for the second Christmas that would come on Jan 7th when Russians celebrate their christmas.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

it's Christmas!

The snow is falling and the boys have sung to us!
God is good!!!!

We wish our family and friends the best christmas ever and our love and prayers support you wherever you are.

love Ron & Lyn

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

We began December by moving to a new , larger apartment.
It is in a block of units of 15 floors with four apartments on each floor.


We have 2 balconies - and so we have put some pots out ready to plant spring bulbs - when we find out where to buy them.




Entry hall - full length mirrors - probaly built in the 50's






Very Blue outlook on everything. And yes that is the washing machine in the kitchen.











Chandelier - takes a bit to clean too!







The boys sent angels for our tree


Ron has a small study area





Very blue loo too!!!

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Visit to the kindergarten

We set off early down the country road to visit a kindergarten where 100 children attend each day













The buildings were nearly a century old and the play equipment just as ancient





It was nap time and even the 6 year olds had afternoon nap - 2 hours of time out.











this little one had to get up for a call of nature - but straight back to bed













Soon it was afternnon tea time.



after they had washed their hands - no running water here


























The water had been drawn from this well and carried 100 metres to the big house









We looked at the equipment that had been purchased - new windows, new toys













Before we left - some of had to 'go for a walk' before the long drive home. The facilities were the building on the left of this picture. This is where the kids go - note the walk from the house - think of cold snowy days and the run across the yard up the slippery path -







Instructions - boys to the left - girls to the right!
















We arrived safely home - having found another place to stop on the way for the most desperate.

It was a most interesting day - observing totally dedicated staff caring for young Moldovan children in the most difficult circumstances to our way of Western thinking and the luxuries that we have at home. But this is not an unusual arrangement in the post soviet days of Moldova as the communities grapple with building infrastructure and moving into this century.

a week in moldova

THE FOLLOWING IS A BRIEF NARRATIVE OF OUR RECENT VISIT TO MOLDOVA. We stayed at the home of the Callanders - Aussies who currently are the Divisional Commanders. Moldova in size equals about half the size of Tassie with more than 5 times the population.

Monday 24th Nov. – we departed Moscow early morning arriving in Moldova for lunch. Following lunch the afternoon was spent in a range of meetings and discussion with Oxana ( Project worker) her assistant Eric and also other Divisional Staff. We also caught up on emails and Ron did some further work on the next project Board. The work continues even while we are on the road.
Monday evening we dined out with other visitors in Moldova at this time. Andy's Pizza - but they do nice steaks, salds and the sweets were scrumptuous.
We concluded the day with a visit to the DHQ apartment that is currently being renovated as a project. Work is nearing completion and funds have been spent. That was about a 15 hour day!


Tuesday 25th.
A trip to the embassy to secure our return visa to Russia took most of the morning. We were pleasantly surprised with the speed and attention to have this processed in just 1.5 hours - we had expected to take a week for this to happen.
During the afternoon we continued our discussion with project worker and sat in on a Divisional Project Board.

Wednesday 26th.
Lyn worked with Oxana looking at Child Sponsorship while Ron spent some time with Eric the Swedish Volunteer who has arrived for a year to work at DHQ and in the division. The afternoon was spent a range of work related activities and emails. During the day there was a large snow fall - it was amazing to sit in the office - looking out the window as huge snow flakes fell and covered the ground. The workers on the building site next door continued to work through the day.

Thursday 27th
With an early start we headed off in the Bus to accompany Ian, Viv, Oxana, Eric & Galena. We visited Chadir Lunga Corps to deliver humanitarian Aid , then on to Cahul to look at the hall building under construction. The main purpose of our trip was to visit a Kindergarten that had received project funding for improvements. This Kindergarten is situated in the southern part of the country some 3 hour drive from the capital. Situated in a small rural village, the centre accommodated 100 children for 7 hours a day which included 3 meals. A ‘western equivalent’ would see this as a child care centre. A place for smaller children to attend while mum & dad worked. Here there is no doubt that mum & dad were out to work – most likely in the farming fields around the village.
The drive to the village across the rural areas took us through the fields and many small villages along the way. It was an interesting introduction to the way of life here in Moldova. The sights and scenes along the way telling the story of the way of life here, of struggle and subsistence living. The common sight of water wells reminding us that there was no running water in these villages. The daily task of collecting water to meet their needs from strategically placed wells is the part of life in these regions. The view into their yards - to see the animals and livestock contained in the small area. The garden plot staked out, with preserved grain and corn hung out to meet the needs of the winter months. The deteriorated and aging infrastructure reminded you constantly of the journey of this region through the soviet era and now into privatisation. Who is now responsible to repair the road that is so full of pot holes, the buildings that are falling down. The common means of transport in these region still remains the horse and cart although vehicles are becoming more evident as they also make the travel through the narrow roadways more difficult. The sight of small herds of animals from the villages being shepherded along the roadways is a way of life as the animals are grazed and at the end of the day each animal is returned to their homes. It was interesting when we travelled into the late afternoon to watch the cows who found their way naturally back into the yards. Sheep need a little more direction and require herding. But at the end of the day the shepherd takes the flock he has cared for and drives them through the centre of the village and delivers the animal to the home from which they came. Most of these small villages are only one street and so you definitely drive through the centre of town.

The Kindergarten we visited welcomed us with a typical Moldovan meal and then we were given a tour of the facility. We entered each of the rooms where children are cared for in their age groups from 3 to 7 years when they start school. We toured each of the rooms where the children were in their afternoon nap period. Each little bed contained a small person and in some cases they lay awake and looked up from their beds with their big eyes as these visitors intruded into their space. We were able to see the resourceful way they use limited resources. We looked at equipment they purchased with the funds and also some essential refurbishment and new play and teaching resources. Again we reminded of the legacy of post soviet management. Here was a very old building – no sewerage, no running water, the toilet block an external outhouse, the kitchen in an separate building across the yard with no connecting pathways. Thee water supply was from a well with a hand winding bucket on a chain from which all water was collected each day. This was their way of life.

At first we began to be concerned that there was no running water, and then we saw the toilet block – a concrete building with 20 small holes in the concrete floor (boys to the left and girls to the right – no divider) No sewerage connection. You cannot have one without the other, no running water without the drain to clear it. The problem is complex. The town council who manage the site have been promising for years that something will be done – but there are no funds. And there are so many other priorities. The roof leaks badly in this very old building, there is little heating. The play equipment in the yard is ancient but well used. We observed the kids waking from their naps and the trek they would make to go to the outside toilet to ‘squat’ over the hole in the ground in a cold concrete building some 50 yards from the house. We shuddered at the thought of it ( and crossed our legs not wanting to go there) – but soon realised that what they had here was probably far better than they would have in their home situation and it definitely was clean, well, as clean as you make a 100 year old concrete slab! We spent a few minutes with the younger children as they had their evening meal of milky rice and watched as parents came to collect their kids at the end of the day. We struggled with the magnitude of the need. What could we do? What should we do? And the most sobering thought was that here in Moldova there were probably 200 more Kindergartens just like this. Here were very dedicated teachers shaping the lives of future Moldovans, 7 hours a day, making the best of every resource they could acquire and in a clean and orderly environment making a difference in the lives of these young people.

We arrived home later in the evening from the return journey through narrow potholed roads reflecting on the different way of life here and thinking about what we as an army are doing or could be doing in this place.


Friday 28th Nov
It was back in the bus again as we travelled to visit the project as Rusca womens Prison. Here the Army has developed a project in the prison to teach basic computer skills. The programme is run three times per year so that 15 ladies nearing release are able to gain a certificate in computer skills. A computer teacher is employed three days per week and one day per week we have a support worker come in to do personal and spiritual development with these ladies. This she does over a meal and a cuppa whilst the ladies are in their class time. The relationship with prison authorities is excellent and we have an open door to the prison for these activities. There is also need for humanitarian aid here which is distributed as needed as the ladies are not supplied with clothing and must supply their own, which in many cases is not possible.

We were given a tour of the facility – to see the accommodation and work areas. Some 200 ladies are in this place. This is a program of excellence and is making a difference in the lives of these ladies.

Saturday 29th Nov
Today we again travelled out into a rural village to observe the medical clinic in action. We started out from the ‘medical centre’ in Chisinau that is operated by Doctor Carraman and his team. This clinic is open for the poorest people and provides medical checks and free medication. The ‘mobile’ clinic takes up to 8 doctors out to a village to respond to the medical needs of the village people and distribute free medication to people who might not otherwise be able to access this care. We pay the doctors $30 for this days work. There are 45 clinics held each year. We arrived at the village of Negrea to see the queue of people spilling out onto the path. The 2 room waiting area wall to wall with people. Today there is no electricity. The wood fires were being stoked for heating. The people were gathered around for a bible reading – Dr Carraman says they need Jesus more than the medicine – so we have a short message and prayer before we start. Notice is given that this is the last time the clinic will come to this village. Budget restraints will change the course of work into the future. Also changing medical response in communities means that we need to look again at this work we have done for many years now in this format. And so there were some speeches to acknowledge the work of the clinic, the queues reformed and the doctors get to work. Aproximatley 200 people will be seen before the day is over.

The doctors set up in their small rooms – the cardiologist and GP in one room, the paediatrician in another, the gynaecologist in another and the ladies GP and nurse in another. In the other room the dispensary was set out and the pharmacist would distribute free medication as prescribed by the doctors.

Today was typical of the other village days – where most of the people would walk long distances to come to the clinic or arrive in their horse and cart. Through the dense crowded waiting room they waited their turn to be seen by the doctor, some just for checkup and medication, some quite ill. We observed one young boy being checked for chronic tonsillitis – his throat nearly closed over with infection and glands the size of large marbles. There is some emphasis on vitamins and natural remedies but also there is a large supply of medication distributed and some of the elderly were observed to depart with plastic bags full of medication to keep them going for the next months until the clinic would return. Young mums were given 2 tins of baby formulae and vitamins.
On this day there was a wheelchair from the humanitarian aid shipment to be delivered to an elderly lady bedridden because of a stroke. Ian was the driver of the bus and we were led up a very slippery, narrow track to reach the village house to deliver the chair. We entered the home of this lady who had not left her bed for 2 years. We spent a few minutes in the house and Ian & Viv were lead to pray with the family – they in their language and we in English. The Lord’s Prayer is something that unites us whatever our culture or language. It is understood and shared. The road down the hill was slightly improved and we made it safely back to the main road – but it was good Ian’s blood pressure was not checked then. It had been a very challenging and difficult road to negotiate.

We arrived home late into the evening again as the slow and dangerous potholed roads of country Moldova presented its challenges to the driver. This again was a day to witness the army in action – following its slogan – Heart to God ---Hand to man.

Sunday 30th
We opted for a short drive today and attended the Sunday service at Chisinau Central Corps. Today being the first Sunday of advent the meeting involved a number of the Home League ladies in readings and candle lighting It was good to sing some carols (in Russian) and be reminded that Christmas is coming. There was a good spirit in the meeting and a small group of young people departed for their activities during the meeting. On our way home we had a look at the market area – this is where Moldovans go shopping. It has previously been described as ‘Victoria Market on steroids’. Absolutely a challenge to every sense – all the sights , smells and sounds that you could imagine. I think I am now vegetarian!!! The fish market just passed as a possible source of food but the meat market????

Monday 1st. Dec.
Today was a day for observation and reflection. Ian & Viv were back to the office to catch up on work, as they had been out with us for the previous week. We took a stroll through the centre of Chisinau, down the main street, through the large church and other areas, parks and shops. We walked to the War memorial area to see the changing of the guard. The walk did us good as we took in further sights and sounds of this region and took some time out to think about the days and experiences of our week in Moldova

Tuesday 2nd Dec.
Our week came to a conclusion with some time in DHQ to catch up on emails and finalise any discussions and then it was to the airport for our return flight to Moscow. Our trip through passport control so different to the first flight form aus. From Moldova we were the only non nationals on the plane - everyone else went to the Russian section or to transit lounge. so we had the choice of 3 windows and it was straight through to pick up our bags and within 20 minutes of landing we were in the car and on the way back to our little flat. Our first visit brought us through large queues and waiting for nearly 2 hours. We were sitting drinking milo that Tara had sent to Moldova ( sure to get through post there) by 9pm and tucked into bed by 10.
It had been a most interesting week - good to see the army in action and also very good to share with fellow aussies. Great to relax in their home and catch up on stories from home and family.

So it is back to work in Moscow and the interesting world of Projects!!!

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

The Changing Face of Moscow

Moscow has not yet revealed herself in her white coat, but the days are getting shorter and colder. The sky is often grey and the wind has a distinct artic feel to it. The weather is not depressing as I thought it would be. Nor is it onerous to rug up in the morning and leave a warm flat for the walk to work.

It is stating the obvious but as the days get colder the coats get heavier and longer. The padding is thicker. Yet without the padding the cold would chill. So we rug up. It doesn't keep us in doors at the moment but no doubt when outside temperature hits the minus 20 or 30 mark in February travel will be at a minimum unless you're a ski junky or Mr Freeze.

We had a long weekend recently. Of course we had to work Saturday to get Sunday, Monday Tuesday off. We travelled up to the site of the 1980 Winter Olympics at Vorovoby Gory. It was a quite pleasant environment, away from the city into the some fresh air but this area attracts a lot of people aparticularly tourists. You also get a good view of the city and an idea of its spread both outward and upward. When you see the density of some of the apartment blocks you just know that there must be a lot of people living here.


The park is linked to the city by a freeway which is how all the tourist got there but it is also easy to reach on the metro which is our preferred mode of travel at the moment. Provided you can decypher the metro map or read the station names it is quite a quick and direct way to travel around Moscow. For example Lyn went to the airport today to meet a projects manager from Netherlands who are major support for the programmes and project that we provide in Eastern Europe Territory (EET), by metro it takes 40 minutes by car at least two hours unless you are travelling at 2:00pm and sane people are asleep then. Train is not the only way around, there is also trolley bus, tram and bus. They all have their place and in certain circumstances one is better than the other but sometime you need to take a combination to arrive close to where you need to be.



On this sightseeing day we returned to Red Square to check some of things we hadn't seen before and revisit some that we had. We are finding that things change very quickly in this city. Last time in Red Square the rear view of St. Basils was obscured by a big marque this had now be taken down and it was quite a transformation that greeted us when we arrived this. Wide open space with banners that announced State Day which was the reason for the holiday. One of the highlights of this trip was seeing the changing of the guard at the soldiers' memorial. The precision goose step was great. It was a cold day but they didn't miss a step.



We continue to be amazed at the generousity of other territories who are committed to seeing

the work of the Armee Spaceenya develop in EET. There are some amazing programmes operating throughout Eastern Europe. The mobile Medical Clinic in Moldova, the feeding programme at the rubbish tip in Ukraine, the laundry programme in Romania, the refugee humanitarian relief work in Georgia, the Bridge programme and work amongst HIV infected people and their families in Russia are but a few amongst many services and ministries that it is humbling to play a very small part in.


Next week (18th November 2008) we need to leave Russia temporarily as our 3 month visa expires early in December. So we will be in Moldova for about a week applying for another visa which will be the catalyst for the 12 month visa and 12 month work permit that will enable us to move more freely between the countries that make up the EET. It will be good to see some programmes first hand and Moldova has a large variety of programmes and projects operating in this small country. We looking forward to catching up with Ian & Viv Callander and spending some aussie time. It will be much more lonely when we arrive back. During our absence 3 couples will all be returning to Australia. This will leave us to carry the Aussie flag at THQ.


Well this is probably enough for this blog. I want to leave you wanting more so that you will come back again and I will not just be writing to myself (I know I'm in trouble when I start answering myself). Let me know what you think of this site and if you have my personal email address or you are on my mailing list please continue to write it is such a help to know that even though distance separates us we are not out of touch . So until next time keep bloggin.


R